Outwardly, the house is the same, and at mealtimes, everyone spreads out over the long wooden tables. But the similarities end there.

No women weave around the tables, clearing plates and refilling glasses of water. Now at the middle of each table, there are enormous dishes of food so everyone can help themselves, along with jugs of water as well.

But perhaps the biggest change is the noise.

Conversation and laughter fill the room to overflowing. It’s that loud. But it isn’t only voices ...