"Fans drive hundreds of miles for the match," Charlie said as he assisted Stub and me down from the bus. "We're proud to fill the stadium every time. I've never even seen weather keep people away." He put his arm around Stub. "Come on, let's go in. They should have your name at the side door and you'll be getting a field pass like me."

All I could do was follow, and sure enough I had a pass waiting for me. Stupid that I hadn't asked what I needed to do to get in. The place was ...