The moment the taxi turned off the main road and into the narrow, winding artery of Kibera, I knew I was in a different world, one far from polished villas, echoing hallways, and the life I once lived.

And maybe that was exactly what I needed.

Heat pressed against the windows as children weaved between vendors selling everything from charcoal to mismatched shoes. Laundry lines crisscrossed the sky like tangled hopes. Women sat by the road braiding each other’s hair, calling out prices. Music ...