With a few empty skewers skillfully stacked on my empty paper plate, I sipped the coffee and eventually summoned the nerve to reach over and unwrap one of the chocolate-filled cookies to munch on. I was after all a gourmet writer. Isamu watched me slightly amused.

We cleaned up the table and took a walk around, waiting for the mochi ceremony to begin. Shinmei Shrine, where the phallus was to be kept for the year, heaved with people, engrossed in prayers, kneeling in front of a ...