I had been in Holland before but always during brief layover between flights from the States and Italy or another European destination, so I didn't know what to expect besides the proverbial windmills, tulips and clogs. In the next few days I discovered I loved it all, from the water canals flowing everywhere to the hidden gem restaurants where the locals drink mostly beer and eat hearty meals. So much for the scrying, I had yet to see wine, just barrels and barrels of beer. But what ...