Not far from the museum we found a small bistro where we ordered steak tartar with all the delicious trimmings of rye bread, raw egg yolk, diced pickled beetroot, capers, all enhanced by an excellent bottle of Bordeaux.

"So, tell me. Did you find all the cheese you needed?" Isamu asked, while sipping wine.

I nodded and pushed our empty plates to the side of the table where an attentive waiter immediately collected them.

"Yes. I had a great photographer who went ...