In bright daylight, the morning of the grand opening at the museum buzzed with life. Our cab pulled in front of the building and I almost did not recognize the decked-up facade. Spectators, journalists and security guards crowded the staircase leading up to the front entrance where a long line had begun to form already. Isamu paid the cab driver, took my hand and quickly led me up the stairs. He cut in front of the line and showed the frowning security guard a badge.

"What ...