A smiling maid brought their dinner to their room. Watching her move was a treat for Azuki, who hoped to develop such elegance. She entered on her knees then seemed to float across the woven straw tatami mats that provided insulation and a softer surface for the living area.

It really was a feast, echoing the traditional thanks made at the end of a meal. The pumpkin was steamed with soy sauce, rice wine, sugar and salt. There was lovely grilled trout, plus wild greens, both steamed ...