Annecy took us to the closest point of the stream that provided clean water to the camp. Downstream, women washed clothes and laughed together.

That eased at least a little bit of my concern. It would have been one thing if everybody sort of wandered around with their shoulders hiked up to their ears and flinching at every sound, as if they were all terrified. It seemed like most of the people we'd come across so far were relatively happy, or at least satisfied to be where they were. ...