Mossie leads me to the back of the ship or the stern as she calls it. We wind our way behind the bridge, a command center where the captain waves at us cheerily from the front window. There’s a small open elevator over the side of the ship and Mossie beckons me after confidently stepping onto the platform.

With rubbery legs, I follow, gripping for dear life as the platform sways over the choppy sea. Mossie gives me an excited smile, raising her eyebrows in anticipation. Her ...